Category Archives: Equipment

Why I Want To Fill My Own Tanks

Image: Max-Air.com

I was not expecting it until next Tuesday, but my new portable high pressure breathing air compressor arrived on island today. Instead of waiting for the trucking company to deliver it on Monday, I went down to their warehouse and picked it up myself.

I thought I was going to have to race to the dive shop tonight after teaching classes all day to get my tanks refilled from my dives yesterday before they closed, but instead I was able to get all 4 of them filled with the new compressor. It took me just over an hour to cold fill them, but all 4 of the tanks are filled and ready to go again now.

There were always two things that I did not like about how the local dive shop fills tanks, and they are both caused by the same thing – Hot Fills.

Almost all of the local dive shops hot fill tanks. That is why even though their gauge will show that there was 3,000 in the tank when they filled it, once it cools down that pressure drops by as much as a couple hundred pounds. I have often gotten tanks at 2600 or 2700 and the dive shop thinks that is fine. No thats not fine, thats lazy!

Image: biobug.org

A properly filled tank should be filled to 3,000psi, yet by taking shortcuts and hot filling tanks a perfect 3,000psi tank is hard to achieve. Basically they have to guestimate how much the pressure is going to drop once the tank cools down. Meaning that they have to intentionally overfill the tank by 500psi or more, causing additional stress on the tank so that the cooled tank will be closer to the 3,000 mark.

When I was renting tanks from the dive shop I didn’t worry too much about the additional stress that hot fills cause on a tank. Now that I own my own tanks thats a different story entirely.

Every time a tank is overfilled, or dropped, or banged around it gets closer to not being able to pass inspection and needing to be replaced. That is if your not so unfortunate to have a tank fail on you like the one in this photo. Just imaging if that were to happen while it was strapped to your back.

Over time every tiny bit of stress on the tank adds up causing metal fatigue until it eventually fails. Tanks receive enough stress on them being used without “tank monkeys” at dive shops intentionally overfilling them simply because they are too lazy to do it the right way and properly fill the tanks while keeping them cool, immersed in water.

Complete immersion in a water bath draws this heat away at a significant rate (25 times faster than air, as you may remember from your Open Water Diver class). The colder the water is, the more efficient the heat transfer. This not only reduces the time necessary to obtain a full pressure fill, it also means that you will have a greater volume of air or gas in your tank.

Heat that is generated during the filling process – will cause a significant pressure drop once the cylinder cools to room temperature, and again to diving water temperature. This means you will have a smaller volume of available gas in the event of an emergency. By having a cold, full pressure gas fill, you will have a greater volume of gas for longer dive times, and greater safety.

In recent years many dive stores have gone to dry hot filling, in fact here on Oahu I only know of one dive shop that does not hot fill tanks, Aaron’s Dive Shop in Kailua ($5 for an air fill). This change to hot filling is incorrectly based on published information which says it is not necessary to cool the cylinder. In reality though, to obtain a cool, full pressure gas fill, the cylinder must be filled extremely slow to avoid heating – or it must be allowed to cool to room temperature from the heat that is generated and then topped off to full pressure. Either way, this will take an inordinate amount of time. Other countries have issued warnings in recent years advising dive shops about the dangers of hot filling tanks, but here in the US it is now common practice.

The principles of physics cannot be altered. Any cylinder that is filled in an air environment is going to heat excessively. This heating will result in a substantial loss of pressure as the cylinder cools to ambient temperature. When you have a cylinder filled, it should be at rated pressure and at the very least cool, if not cold to the touch. Anything less is unacceptable. The practice of dry, hot filling is actually a decreased level of customer service, and pure laziness.

The way I see it, to not ensure a cold, fully rated pressure fill is simply a lack of commitment to customer service, and that is why I will be filling my own tanks from now on. If they want to be lazy and not give me good customer service and protect my investment, I can do it myself and save the money that I would have given to them for my tank fills.

Product Review – Sea-Doo Explorer X

I have been using my Sea-Doo Explorer X DPV’s for several months now and thought that it was about time for me to write a review on them to let everyone know what experience I have had with them. I wanted to wait until I had a chance to really test them out under various conditions before writing a review.

When I first received the Explorer X DPV (Diver Propulsion Vehicle) I was skeptical as to how it would actually perform on a dive, especially the battery life. Sea-Doo claims that the batteries have a 2-hour runtime, so just in case I ordered a spare battery with mine.

I was also a little nervous after reading other reviews complaining about the seals not holding and the units flooding. Sea-Doo had apparently completely redesigned the rear end of the Explorer X and driveshaft seals to take care of this problem by incorporating a new three-stage waterproof seal.

I charged the batteries up overnight and prepped the DPV for its first voyage below the surface the next day by carefully inspecting it and installing its o-ring seal which I carefully lubricated with the supplied lubricant. Once the batteries were fully charged I installed the first one and ran a few tests on the scooters on/off switches and finger triggers to make sure that everything was working correctly. Everything appeared to be working correctly so I loaded the unit up for the days dives.

To start testing the Explorer X out I decided to do several boat dives with it, so that incase there was a problem with it I would not be stranded out in the middle of nowhere and have to swim back to shore dragging it behind me. For the next three months I dove with the Explorer X on just about every boat dive that I could as long as I wasn’t doing a training dive that would not allow its use.

I very quickly became a huge fan of the Explorer X. On land with its battery installed it only weighs 32 pounds, about the same as an empty 80cf aluminum scuba tank however in the water it is neutrally buoyant. Its hydrodynamic design allows it to glide through the water with ease and it has the strength to pull 2 divers along for the ride at up to 3.3 MPH.

Most recreational DPV’s in the same price range as the Explorer X (around $700) are very limited in the depths that they can be safely taken down to, many not even able to reach the 100 foot mark. That is one area where the newly redesigned Explorer X shines. It is depth rated to 130 feet (40 meters), and is tested to 160 feet (50 meters). I have had mine down to 125 feet so far with absolutely no troubles whatsoever.

As I mentioned earlier, I was wary of the two-hour battery runtime claimed by Sea-Doo, so I ordered a spare battery for my Explorer X yet I have never run the battery completely empty. I have used it continuously for a 90 minute dive at top speed circling the dive boat (for safety) and I ran out of air before the battery ran out of power. As a safety precaution though, I always change out batteries when I change out my cylinders on my surface interval.

Routine maintenance on the Explorer X is simple to perform. After the days dive’s I thoroughly rinse the DPV in fresh water allowing it to sit submerged for a few minutes to remove any salt deposits. I also start up the DPV while holding it in the water and let it work any salt from the driveshaft and propeller. Then I let it dry off completely before opening it up to take out the battery to recharge. While the battery is out of the unit I carefully inspect the o-ring around the battery compartment to make sure sand or other debris are not on the seal. I also make sure that there is plenty of lubricant on the o-ring before I drop in a freshly charged battery and seal it back up.

I love with the Explorer X so much that I now own two of them and have used them to show other divers how enjoyable they are when we dive together. A couple of the divers that I have allowed to use mine have loved them so much that they have now ordered their own. I actually dread shore diving without one now, thinking about how I will have to fight against currents, or make long surface swims to get out to a dive site. The Explorer X has become an invaluable tool in my dive trailer.

My Product Rating: 

Portable Breathing Air Compressor

I have been considering installing a portable high-pressure breathing air compressor in the dive trailer for a while now.

I have been looking at a few different models, including the Max Air 35-G with a Honda gasoline engine shown here which I decided on because if its price, portability, and features. This compressor with a Honda gasoline engine weighs just 85 pounds, so it can be carried by just one person.

I wanted either a gasoline or diesel engine model so that I would be able to fill scuba tanks away from electricity.

These new portable compressors are able to fill scuba tanks with the same grade of compressed air (Grade-E) as the larger machines at dive shops, just not as fast. With a portable machine, tank fills would take around 20 minutes versus 10 at a dive shop.

When you think about it though, 20 minutes really isn’t that bad. If you are filling 3 tanks for the next days dives, in about an hour while you are cleaning you gear and getting it ready for the next days dives, your tanks are all filled and your ready to go — no trip to the local dive shop necessary.

You have to also consider fuel and maintenance costs of the compressor oil and the air filters which have to be changed out after every 10 hours of use, which would be about 30 filled tanks.

With the cost of fuel, maintenance, replacement filters, oil, etc, that would come to about $1 per tank fill versus the traditional $4 that the local dive shops here charge, saving me about $3 for every tank that I fill.

There have been several occasions when we have planned early morning dives at the last-minute the evening before, and the dive shops just closed. We were left with no way of getting tank fills for the early morning dives because we were planning to do the dives before the dive shops even opened. With a portable air fill station in the dive trailer, this problem would be a thing of the past.

I have been adding everything up, and a portable fill station like this would pay for itself within just over a year of use for me, which is an acceptable return on investment rate. After that time it would continue to save me money with every dive, not to mention the convenience of being able to fill my own tanks whenever and wherever I needed to fill them and being able to fill tanks for others on-site if necessary.

With the air compressor, spare air filters, compressor oil and shipping & handling the total came to just a little bit over $3,800.00 and should be here in about a week or so.

I have always considered myself to be a “self-contained” diver, meaning that I did not have to rely on anyone else for any of my diving equipment. Now I can truly say that I am completely self-contained. I will still get my Nitrox tanks filled at a local dive shop, but from now on I will be filling my own air tanks.

UPDATE: (7/1/13) I just found out that the air compressor was shipped out from the manufacturer in Texas last Wednesday the 26th and is scheduled to arrive here in Hawaii next Tuesday, July 9th. Hopefully I will have it operational by that weekend.

Dive Trailer – MaxxAir Fan/Mate Installation

FanMateToday I will be installing a MaxxAir Fan/Mate rain cover over the top of the Fantastic Vent that I just installed on the roof of my dive trailer so that I will be able to use the ventilation worry free in any weather conditions, rain or shine.

This installation is also a very simple job to complete. Make sure that any rain cover you decide to use is specifically designed for high-flow ventilation fans otherwise you can starve the fan for air and burn the motor up in it quickly. The MaxxAir Fan/Mate is designed to be used with the Fantastic Vents roof fans and has been tested to be used with them. I will be installing the model 850 because my dive trailer is white. The Fan/Mate is also available in black (model 950).

  1. Sit the vent cover over the top of the vent and center it. Decide which side you want to have the hinges mounted on so that you can easily open the Fan/Mate for maintenance and cleaning. Make sure that it’s opening will not interfere with anything else that is already on your roof.
  2. Open the vent lid slightly so that you can access the side of its frame.
  3. photo[12]Using a ruler and pencil, mark a line on your roof at the rear edge of your fan housing on the side that will have the locking brackets (the non-hinged side).
  4. Place one of the locking brackets so that the rear edge of it is exactly 1 ½” from the line that you drew in step 3.
  5. Mark the screw holes in the bracket onto the side of the fan housing and drill a 3/32″ hole in the center of each. Make sure that you do not drill more than ½” deep into the fan housing wall.
  6. Secure the locking bracket to the fan housing wall using two of the supplied self-tapping screws.
  7. Measure the second locking bracket so that its rear edge is exactly 9 ⅛” from the rear edge of the first locking bracket and mark the locations for the two mounting screw holes in this bracket onto the fan housing side.
  8. Drill a 3/32″ hole in the center of each. Make sure that you do not drill more than ½” deep into the fan housing wall.
  9. Secure the second locking bracket to the fan housing wall using two of the supplied self-tapping screws.
  10. Repeat steps 3-9 on the other side of the roof vent to install the hinges.
  11. Open the hinges and slide one of the supplied carriage bolts through each hinge so that when the hinge is closed the carriage bolt is sticking straight up.
  12. Set the MaxxAir Fan/Mate down onto the carriage bolts and threaded studs on the locking brackets over the vent.
  13. On the locking side of the vent cover, install the supplied wing nuts onto the threaded posts on the locking brackets, but do not tighten all the way yet.
  14. Place a supplied star washer on both of the hinge side carriage bolts and install a nut and tighten securely.
  15. Now you can fully tighten the wing nuts on the locking brackets all the way down hand-tight.
  16. To open the MaxxAir Fan/Mate for cleaning and maintenance just unscrew the wing nuts on the locking side and lift the cover open. Be sure to retighten the wing nuts when you are finished.
photo[16]

MaxxAir Fan/Mate rain cover installed.

Dive Trailer – Roof Ventilation Fan Installation

The Model 6000RBTA 3-speed reversible roof ventilation fan with automatic thermostat controlled opening from Fantastic Vents is an easy swap out for any standard 14″ roof vent in any trailer, truck, or R.V., that is IF your vehicle already has a standard 14″ roof vent installed in it.

But what if it doesn’t already have one? Today I will be walking you through installing this roof ventilation fan on my dive trailer which did not come from the factory with any roof ventilation at all on it at all.

  1. Cutting a hole for the roof vent

    Cutting a hole for the roof vent

    First I had to decide exactly where I wanted to install the roof vent, making sure that it would not interfere with the trailer frame cross bars, and that I had a 12 volt power source accessible near it.

  2. Once I had decided on its location I measured and marked a 14 inch square area on the roof of the trailer with a permanent marker and drilled a hole in each corner.
  3. I then used a small circular saw fitted with a metal cutting blade to carefully cut along the line that I had marked creating a 14″ square opening in the center of the roof. I could have used a jigsaw to cut this opening, but the circular saw cuts straight lines easier and it was handy.
  4. Dropping roof vent into place

    Dropping roof vent into place

    Once I had the opening cut out I placed the supplied foam gasket around the opening and dropped the new vent into place making sure that the foam gasket was straight all the way around the vent.

  5. Before you mount the vent frame to the roof, run the 12 volt positive and ground wires to the fan and connect them using the supplied bullet connectors. The white wire is the ground wire and the black wire is the hot wire. Turn on the fan and check airflow direction to make sure you have not crossed the wires. If the fan direction is not correct simply reverse the wires.
  6. The installation kit comes with 16 stainless steel sheet metal screws to secure the vent frame down onto the roof through the pre-drilled mounting holes all the way around the vent frame.
  7. Turn the hand crank on the inside of the vent to open the vent cover. You will then be able to better access the screw holes on three sides of the vent. By then closing the cover by turning the hand crank in the opposite direction you will be able to access the screw holes on the back side of the frame where the lid is hinged.
  8. After all of the mounting screws are securely in place you can now seal the vent against leaks. This is normally done by applying a bead of silicone around the base of the frame where it meats the roof all the way around, and another drop of silicone on each screw head.
  9. Alternatively you can use a product called RoofSeal from EternaBond which is a micro sealant in a convenient tape form that you roll out across a joint where you want to create a watertight seal. I have used this product previously on both my food trucks and house roof and am very impressed with its ease of use, convenience, and durability. It comes in several different colors to match the roofing material color and several sizes to meet your needs. Since I already had a roll of 2″ wide white RoofSeal tape left over from my last food truck, I will be using that on the trailer to create a permanent watertight seal between the roof and the vent frame.
  10. Once the vent frame has been sealed to the roof, the next step is to install the garnish ring around the vent frame on the inside. This will more than likely have to be sized for your particular installation because it comes extra long and unless your roof is 6″ thick it will not fit as is.
  11. To resize the garnish ring depth simply measure how deep you need the ring to be, score the side of it with a razor knife and cut the corners down to your score line. Then snap off the excess from each side.
  12. Once the garnish ring has been resized to your roof thickness simply slide it into position and secure it with the supplied mounting screws.
  13. Snap on the supplied bug screen and your installation is complete.
  14. Simply set the maximum temperature to where you want it to be and when the thermostat reaches that temperature the vent cover will automatically open and turn the fan on dropping the air temperature inside. When the air temperature inside drops below your selected temperature the fan will automatically turn itself back off. The lid will remain open until you push the button or turn the hand crank to close it or until the rain sensor becomes wet. Once the sensor dries the lid will re-open automatically to provide ventilation.

Next I will walk you through installing a MaxxAir Fan/Mate rain cover to the Fantastic Vents ventilation fan that we just installed.

Dive Trailer – New Lighting & Registration

Old incandescent marker lights

Old incandescent marker lights

Over the past few days I have made several changes and improvements to the dive trailer.

All together I have installed 24 amber and 9 red LED marker lights on the trailer now.

Since I have decided to change all of the outside trailer lighting from halogen and incandescent bulbs over to LED, these marker lights that were originally on the trailer (shown here circled in red) had to go. The only problem was if I removed them, they would leave a hole in the side of the trailer where they were mounted.

Then I remembered the four 3″ side vents that I had to install on the trailer, they were the perfect size to take the place of these marker lights.

New side vents installed

New side vents installed

With the new air vents installed, you can’t even tell that marker lights used to be there. They are a perfect fit, and look factory installed.

Legally this trailer is not required to have marker lights on the fenders because it in only a 5 foot wide trailer. This is why it does not come from the factory with marker lights there.

Recently a picky Honolulu Police Department officer harassed me about it not having marker lights showing the “widest point of the vehicle“. I have been getting a lot of harassment from them over the trailer because of the homeowners association where I live. They do not like the trailer parked either on the street, or in my driveway, so they call the police all the time, it’s a real pain dealing with them.

As you can see in the above photos, to appease him I installed both reflectors on the bottoms of the fenders and LED marker lights on the tops of the fenders of both sides to clearly mark the “widest point of the vehicle“.

Reverse Lights

Reverse Lights

When I went to get the trailer’s safety check so that I could renew the license plates on it, the guy inspecting it said that he can’t pass the inspection because it does not have reverse lights on it. Where do they find these people?

Even trailers on 18-wheelers do not have reverse lights on them. Trailers do not come equipped with reverse lights because unless you happen to have a 7-pin trailer electrical connection on the tow vehicle, there is no wiring for reverse lights for the trailer.

Luckily my Suburban is equipped with a 7-pin RV-style hookup for the trailer, so I installed reverse lights onto it.

I have owned this trailer for four years now and I have never once had anyone say that it has to have reverse lights to pass a safety check before. Most trailers I see on the island do not even have license plates on them anyway, and they want me to put reverse lights on mine? What a load of crap to go through completely re-wiring the trailer just for a safety check sticker.

New LED Floodlights for night dives

New LED Floodlights for night dives

So, almost $300 and another week later, I finally have current safety inspection and registration decals on the trailer.

Here is a photo showing the new LED floodlights that I installed on both the rear and right side of the trailer. They are bright enough that I can light up the area around the trailer when getting ready for night dives. I can set up my 10’x10′ pop-up tent beside or behind the trailer and light everything up like daytime making night shore dives much easier.

Next I will be installing the ventilation fan on the roof of the trailer and I will include step-by-step instructions with photos for installing a 3-speed reversible roof fan from Fantastic Vents on a trailer that never had a roof vent on it before. It’s a very simple process to follow making it easy to add a rood vent fan to any trailer, truck, or RV roof.

Dive Trailer – Equipment Installation

photo[5]

Getting it all sorted out.

Now that the walls and floor have been painted it is time to get the shelving installed so that I can start loading everything into the trailer.

The shelves on the front wall of the trailer ended up being the strongest shelves because I used 3 vertical supports closer together than normal, all bolted directly into the steel frame of the trailer, Since these shelves would hold up considerably more weight than originally intended, I decided they would be the perfect location to store both of my DPV’s.

Since the DPV’s take up so much room, I had to drop those shelves down lower than I had anticipated which meant that I could no longer have the workbench in the nose of the trailer that I wanted.

All of my tanks are secured to the wall using the Super Quick Fist rubber clamps which I love. They hold the tanks securely and do not allow any movement at all. I also used the same clamps to mount the four DPV batteries to the front wall directly under the DPV’s so they are handy, and secure.

I have installed the hanging rod and moved over all 4 of my wetsuits, both of my BCD’s, hood, vest-hood, pocket shorts, multiple pairs of fins, etc. Now it is all safely stored out of the sunlight.

I found a set of 4 super bright LED floodlights that I will use to light up the area around the trailer for night dives. I have mounted 2 on the back of the trailer, and 2 more on the right side of the trailer. These floodlights each put out 1,500 lumens but only draw 1.6 amps of power on a 12 volt system. They have an anodized aluminum housing and are waterproof and shock resistant so they should hold up nicely on the outside of the trailer.

So that I will be able to use the lights whether the trailer is hooked up to the Suburban or not I have decided to install a deep-cycle marine battery onboard the trailer that these lights will draw their power from. When I am not diving the trailer will be plugged into 110 volt to recharge the battery.

I am installing a 12 volt 3-speed Fan-Tastic Vents reversible powered roof vent  which automatically opens the vent and turns on the fan when the temperature inside the trailer reaches a pre-determined level which I set. It will be covered with a MaxxAir rain cover so that it can be operated without worry in any weather conditions. I used this exact same setup previously on my food truck and I loved it, they really keep the heat down inside and keep the air moving throughout the vehicle. This will make sure that my equipment and tanks to not overheat inside the trailer on our hot Hawaii summer days, and also make it cooler for me working on equipment or kitting up in the trailer for a dive.

To save power I also am converting all of the lighting on the outside of the trailer over to LED marker lights, tail lights, etc., as well as installing 12 volt fluorescent ceiling lights inside the trailer. They will use less power than halogen versions, and they are a lot brighter. I have also added about two dozen LED amber marker lights running down the length of the trailer on top and bottom, so that it matches the look of my Suburban that I will be pulling it with.

Dive Trailer – Fresh Coat of Paint

Getting the walls ready for paint

Getting the walls ready for paint

I decided I would wait to install the shelving until after I painted the walls and floor to protect the wood paneling from getting damaged from all the water and sand that will surely find its way onto them.

I went to the Home Depot to see what paint would be best for my particular application. I wanted to paint the inside of the trailer bright white so that it would reflect the lighting as much as I could to make it easier to see inside on night dives.

For safety I added a non-slip sand to the porch paint that I will be using on the floor to give a little more traction when it is wet, and am using a semi-gloss for the walls. All of it has to have two coats of primer/sealant on the bare wood before I can start applying the paint, then two coats of each paint. I am still deciding on painting the ceiling. It is bare aluminum now and Im not sure how this paint will adhere to it, so I may just wait on it for now.

I will also be adding a rubber mat made for restaurant floors to the center isle area of the floor to help with drainage. I happened to have one left over from one of my restaurants that was not being used, so why not put it to good use. This will also protect the floor from being damaged by tanks being dropped onto it.

Floor primed and ready for paint

Floor primed and ready for paint

Because of the application they are recommending I wait a full week for it to fully cure before I start using it, so I will wait to install the shelving for now to give it a little time to cure. Before I can start on the floor I have to wait until the walls have their finish coat of paint on them. Once the primer/sealant is applied to the floor, it can’t be walked on until the paint is on and dried. So unfortunately I can’t do all the primer at once, then go back and do all the paint at once like I had hoped to be able to do to save time and make it easier on me.

I want to get the hanging rod installed as soon as possible so I can get all of my wetsuits out of the sun. Right now they are on a garment rack at the back of the trailer waiting to go inside, but I can’t leave them out in the sun for long. Sunlight is the natural enemy of Neoprene.

I am still trying to decide if I want to mount the Rescue Cans on the inside or outside of the trailer. They are something that need to be available quickly when they are needed, so I am considering mounting them on the outside. They are not that expensive so if they happen to get stolen I can replace them and reconsider their location.

Fresh coat of paint waiting to dry, looking good.

Fresh coat of paint waiting to dry, looking good.

I ordered four 3″ round vents to help with ventilation in there. I will be installing a 12v powered roof vent to exhaust the hot air out of the trailer, but I needed intake vents on the sides to bring fresh air in with. I also ordered two 18″ fluorescent ceiling lights that I will figure out how to get installed when it all comes in this week.

Until then I will just have to sit back and watch as the primer and paint slowly dries.

Dive Trailer Plan Changes

TrailerFloorPlan

Current Dive Trailer Floor Plan Top View

I received the roof rack to mount my two kayaks on the trailer from Rack n Road on Thursday expecting to be able to have it installed on the dive trailer over the weekend, however they dropped the ball on this order.

One of the clamps necessary to install the roof rack was not included in the box. Apparently they shipped me one that had already been opened by someone else because the plastic parts bag inside the box had already been torn open, luckily all of the parts were still inside the bag.

Without the last bracket piece I am not able to get the roof rack installed, which has really put me behind in getting this trailer built. I need to have everything ready to go in just over one week because the trailer will be used to provide emergency equipment support for an event. During that time I also have multiple First Aid & CPR classes that I have to teach for two different companies, which further limits my free time to devote to building the dive trailer.

I was planning on custom building the inside of the trailer with marine-grade plywood, however with my time constraints now I am limited with my options. I have decided to switch over to a wire shelving system for the inside of the trailer instead. This will save me a lot of time as I will not have to custom build everything from scratch. The wire shelving will also allow better air flow for drying of the equipment.

The system I have decided to use is made by Closet Maid and is designed for closet organization in the home. They have a lot of different options available including wire shelves, wire drawers, wire hanging baskets, etc., and different shelf sizes to better fit my needs for a more custom look in the trailer.

This will also be quite a bit cheaper than custom building the inside with marine-grade plywood, not to mention a lot lighter saving me weight on the trailer that I can use for more gear inside.

I figured out a way to have a “Bathroom and Changing Room” by using a shower curtain rod and closing the curtain when it is needed. This will allow me to have the portable chemical camping toilet in the trailer for emergencies. There isn’t always a restroom available at a dive site.

This new layout is giving me a lot more room. I will start installing the wire shelving tomorrow.

Rescue Cans Added To Dive Trailer

RescueCanI decided to move the two Rescue Cans that I have from my Suburban over to my dive trailer to keep all of my emergency equipment together in one place. They don’t get used very often, but I would rather have them there and never need them than to need them and not have them.

I also ordered a set of mounting brackets for them so that I can mount them to the wall of the dive trailer to make them easy to get without having to search for them. I will be mounting these right at the back of the trailer so they can be reached quickly in an emergency.

One of the companies that I provided first aid & CPR training for a couple weeks ago is planning a company party later this month at a beach park. They have 2 newly certified lifeguards in-house but they do not have any rescue equipment for them to use, so they contacted me to see if I could give them a list of what they needed to purchase and where they could get it from.

Since I have everything that they will need already in the dive trailer I decided that instead of them purchasing everything for a one-time event, I will bring the trailer over to them and “stand by” in case anything were to happen. They agreed that it was a great idea, and will basically rent me for the day.

This way they will have two lifeguards and a medic on-site along with all of the equipment needed to handle just about any situation.

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